In the meantime we arrived successfully. What is more: I have selected and uploaded my photos. Here they are:
Sunday 2 June 2019
Sunday 28 April 2019
Saturday 27 April 2019
16th day: from Lukla to Lukla
This day we were supposed to fly to Ramechhap where we can drive to Kathmandu. The weather had other decision.
Our accommodation is 5 minutes walk from the airport so early morning (around 6am) we heard airplanes to fly. We were at 7am at the airport, did the security check-in but unfortunately the flight route become foggy so flying was stopped. Around noon some passenger decided to pay 2500 USD / 5 person to fly with helicopter to Katmandu. We hoped for the change of the weather.
In the meantime guides and accommodation owners walked in and out of the security gate and tried to inform their guest.
Around 1pm the one and only airplane in Lukla airport (the rest of the planes were in Ramechhap) was closed and parked so we went to the accommodation for a lunch. There we water for further info and around 4pm the final decision was arrived: no flight today. So we went to the airport and collected our checked in luggage from the runway.
We occupied our accommodation again and searched for some wifi (succeeded :)).
Tomorrow we try it again. The little worry is that tomorrow will first fly the ones who has originally ticket to tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Our accommodation is 5 minutes walk from the airport so early morning (around 6am) we heard airplanes to fly. We were at 7am at the airport, did the security check-in but unfortunately the flight route become foggy so flying was stopped. Around noon some passenger decided to pay 2500 USD / 5 person to fly with helicopter to Katmandu. We hoped for the change of the weather.
In the meantime guides and accommodation owners walked in and out of the security gate and tried to inform their guest.
Around 1pm the one and only airplane in Lukla airport (the rest of the planes were in Ramechhap) was closed and parked so we went to the accommodation for a lunch. There we water for further info and around 4pm the final decision was arrived: no flight today. So we went to the airport and collected our checked in luggage from the runway.
We occupied our accommodation again and searched for some wifi (succeeded :)).
Tomorrow we try it again. The little worry is that tomorrow will first fly the ones who has originally ticket to tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Friday 26 April 2019
Fooooood
During our hike we meet 3 types of Nepali dishes: rice, potato and 'momo'.
Rice is offered boiled of fried mixed with vegetables or meat or omelet (scrambled eggs) and optionally cheese on the top.
They have 'dal bhat', that is boiled rice with lentil soup poured onto it. They eat it plain, with vegetables or with meat stew. 'Dal' means lentil and they use it even on the English menu, like 'dal soup'.
Potato: they offered it mainly fried, mixed with vegetables or meat or tuna (dunno how traditional this version is) and optionally cheese on the top.
They eat smashed potato as well, e.g. with cheese.
They have 'hash braun', that is mashed potato mixed with spices and fried.
They are proud of the quality and taste of the potato and it really tasted nice.
Potato can be grown even on the altitude of 4400m, in Dingboche.
Momo: this is a bit of something covered with thin pastry and steamed or fried. It resembles a bit to the Hungarian 'baratfule' or the Slovak 'pirohy'. The original one is stuffed with chicken. We ate them stuffed with mashed potato and cheese.
Update: I have just learned that mono is not traditional Nepali but it came from China. Though it became quite popular among Nepalian people.
Rice is offered boiled of fried mixed with vegetables or meat or omelet (scrambled eggs) and optionally cheese on the top.
They have 'dal bhat', that is boiled rice with lentil soup poured onto it. They eat it plain, with vegetables or with meat stew. 'Dal' means lentil and they use it even on the English menu, like 'dal soup'.
 |
| Dal bhat |
Potato: they offered it mainly fried, mixed with vegetables or meat or tuna (dunno how traditional this version is) and optionally cheese on the top.
They eat smashed potato as well, e.g. with cheese.
They have 'hash braun', that is mashed potato mixed with spices and fried.
They are proud of the quality and taste of the potato and it really tasted nice.
Potato can be grown even on the altitude of 4400m, in Dingboche.
Momo: this is a bit of something covered with thin pastry and steamed or fried. It resembles a bit to the Hungarian 'baratfule' or the Slovak 'pirohy'. The original one is stuffed with chicken. We ate them stuffed with mashed potato and cheese.
 |
| Fried momo |
Update: I have just learned that mono is not traditional Nepali but it came from China. Though it became quite popular among Nepalian people.
15th day: back to the civilization
Today we had a 3 hours walk to Lukla, where we will fly back tomorrow. Took a look at the shops, had lunch, took a deaper look at the shops and find a coffee where the wifi works. (Without wifi life would stop, I guess.:))
14th day: Kaiserschmarn
14th day.
The first proper rain. Ultimately. We needed even to take on raincoats on the way to Phakding.
On the way we had lunch near to the entrance of the Sagharmata National Park. For our surprise Kaiserschmarn was also on the menu. It was nice. The lady said that she learned it 4-5 years ago from one of her guest, a German man, who has a mountain hut in the Alps.
In Phakding we tested the products of the local bakery (they passed the test). And had a hot shower. After 13 days.
For lunch Reni ordered pumpkin soup and we learned that pumpkin is quite common here. Though traditionally it is not used for a soup but a curry, combined with rice.
Thursday 25 April 2019
13th & 14th day: back down
On the 13th day we went down from Dingboche to Namche Bazar and on the 14th day to Phakding.
It is interesting to see the already seen places from an other perspective.
On the 15th day we plan to walk to Lukla and on the next day back to Katmandu.
It is interesting to see the already seen places from an other perspective.
On the 15th day we plan to walk to Lukla and on the next day back to Katmandu.
12th day: my first 5000er :)
Today with Csilla and Raj we summited the lower peak of Chhukhung Ri (5400m). This is my first fivethousander. Ok, I was higher than 5000m in the EBC (5347m) and even slept over 5000m, in Gorakshep but have never been on a summit higher than 5000m.
We took the 600m high difference in 3,5 hours. It shows how technically difficult the path was... No. It was only a hike to a hill. No snow, no climbing. Only that the oxygen was the half of the one on see level. Indeed there is half atmosphere at 5500m. So we hiked snake-style: we stopped to look at the picturesque scenery after each 10 steps. Yes, we needed to check that the 6-7-8000ers were still there: Amadablam, Lhotse, Makalu. We also checked the summit of Island Peak if climbers were there.
The weather was perfect: sunshine without any clouds and almost no wind. We can also see the halo effect. This time the second circle was a rainbow.
The Chhuchkung Ri is really like a hill. There was even scattered vegetation on it. Some brushes on the lower part. Grass and dry flowers from last year on the upper part. The flowers said to be blossom in June and July.
In the meantime Reni summited the Island Peak and joined us at lunchtime.
After lunch and packing together we walked back to Dingbodse in an Xmas-like, snowing landscape.
We took the 600m high difference in 3,5 hours. It shows how technically difficult the path was... No. It was only a hike to a hill. No snow, no climbing. Only that the oxygen was the half of the one on see level. Indeed there is half atmosphere at 5500m. So we hiked snake-style: we stopped to look at the picturesque scenery after each 10 steps. Yes, we needed to check that the 6-7-8000ers were still there: Amadablam, Lhotse, Makalu. We also checked the summit of Island Peak if climbers were there.
The weather was perfect: sunshine without any clouds and almost no wind. We can also see the halo effect. This time the second circle was a rainbow.
The Chhuchkung Ri is really like a hill. There was even scattered vegetation on it. Some brushes on the lower part. Grass and dry flowers from last year on the upper part. The flowers said to be blossom in June and July.
In the meantime Reni summited the Island Peak and joined us at lunchtime.
After lunch and packing together we walked back to Dingbodse in an Xmas-like, snowing landscape.
Monday 22 April 2019
Different dimensions
"Soon you can see the mountains" said Raj, our guide on an altirude about 2800m, at the beginning of our hike. Hey, 2800m is a proper mountain in Europe. I needed to realise that Himalaya is not comparable with Europe. Here we walked to 3800m on a hiking route in a forest and without any technical difficulty. In the same time in Europe this altitude is covered with snow and getting there requires equipments like crampons, ice axes or even rope. Here we can see snow only on 5000ers. Ok-ok we saw some traces of snow from winter around 4000 in the shadow.
We walked in mixed forests of pine trees and non-evergreens (like rhododendrons) till about 4000. Here the fauna changed to meadow with bushes.
The first snowfall was on 4400m and it stayed only for the night as temperature during the day is over 0 grad Celsius.
We walked in mixed forests of pine trees and non-evergreens (like rhododendrons) till about 4000. Here the fauna changed to meadow with bushes.
The first snowfall was on 4400m and it stayed only for the night as temperature during the day is over 0 grad Celsius.
11th day: Island Peak BC
This day we acompanied Reni to the Island Peak Base Camp (5080m) had lunch there, took a look at the nearby lake and returned to Chhukhung.
The weather was nice and sunny upward and cloudy and snowing back. The lake, that had melted from a glacier, was frozen and snowed over so looked different than Csilla remembered.
The weather was nice and sunny upward and cloudy and snowing back. The lake, that had melted from a glacier, was frozen and snowed over so looked different than Csilla remembered.
Sunday 21 April 2019
10th day: Nice morning walk to Chhukhung
10th day.
Today we had a really short and nice walk Chhukhung. 3-4km, 350m high difference, 2.5 hours. We walked along a stream Ina valley, that resembles slightly to Tatra. 8- and 7thousenders covered by snow around. There was sunshine, we walked really slow, sometimes sit down and just enjoyed the beautiful scenery.
9th day: Back to 4400m
9th day.
Reni and Csilla with Raj climbed (walked) the Kalaphatthar peak (5643m), that is a new high record for both. They set off at 4:30 am and summited at 7 am. Everest was covered with clouds but they has a nice scenery of other peaks.
With Pati we tried to rest and recover instead.
After the 'climbers' returned we went to Dingboche, where we stayed 2 days ago. Dingboche is the last village of the area. The higher places are set only for tourists.
This day was proper mountain weather: wind with snow and a little bit of sunshine.
Reni and Csilla with Raj climbed (walked) the Kalaphatthar peak (5643m), that is a new high record for both. They set off at 4:30 am and summited at 7 am. Everest was covered with clouds but they has a nice scenery of other peaks.
With Pati we tried to rest and recover instead.
After the 'climbers' returned we went to Dingboche, where we stayed 2 days ago. Dingboche is the last village of the area. The higher places are set only for tourists.
This day was proper mountain weather: wind with snow and a little bit of sunshine.
8th day: EBC
8th day.
EBC is not a misspelling of the alphabet but the abbreviation of the Everest Base Camp.
Toward the EBC we walked along the Khumbu Glacier. This is a huge glacier and we could clearly see the crevasses, lakes and caves of it. At the EBC we could see the 'valley' where the climbers start to climb toward the Everest peak.
Walking 9km and 500m high difference is not easy around the altitude of 5000m so I was quite exhausted. (Just to compare: On sea level I can walk 40km with 2000m high difference in 10 hours without any problem. I mean I am tired at the end but definitely not exhausted.) So I decided to skip the Kalapatthar hike next day as I did not want to push too far.
EBC is not a misspelling of the alphabet but the abbreviation of the Everest Base Camp.
Toward the EBC we walked along the Khumbu Glacier. This is a huge glacier and we could clearly see the crevasses, lakes and caves of it. At the EBC we could see the 'valley' where the climbers start to climb toward the Everest peak.
Walking 9km and 500m high difference is not easy around the altitude of 5000m so I was quite exhausted. (Just to compare: On sea level I can walk 40km with 2000m high difference in 10 hours without any problem. I mean I am tired at the end but definitely not exhausted.) So I decided to skip the Kalapatthar hike next day as I did not want to push too far.
Thursday 18 April 2019
7th day: 5000m
7th day.
It was snowing again during last afternoon and night. This time it melted slower so the road to our next accommodation (Lobuche, 5000 m) was covered by thin snow. Lobuche is quite busy at daytime as teams toward and back from the Base Camp stops here.
Afternoon we walk a bit (cca. 1/2 hour) to the 'pyramid' that is a meteorological station.
Our blood-oxygen was measured and all of us are ok.
It was snowing again during last afternoon and night. This time it melted slower so the road to our next accommodation (Lobuche, 5000 m) was covered by thin snow. Lobuche is quite busy at daytime as teams toward and back from the Base Camp stops here.
Afternoon we walk a bit (cca. 1/2 hour) to the 'pyramid' that is a meteorological station.
Our blood-oxygen was measured and all of us are ok.
6th day: snowing
6th day.
It was snowing at the night. The whole village was white early morning. It melted heavily so till noon not only the snow disappeared but streets are dried up and become dusty again.
This day we did an acclimatisation hike on the nearby mountain and reached the elevation of our next day sleep: 4900m.
Our hike started in quite warm and sunny weather and later it became foggy and started snowing. Though we were a bit higher, around 4800m, the landscape resembled High Tatra: we walked among scattered granite rock with the green thingy on the surface that becomes slippery when wet, some low bushes trying to be close the surface and resembles the high altitude pine trees (torpefenyo). And all of this covered by snow. And it snowed big flakes like in fery tales. So I really enjoyed it.
We returned around 1pm to the lodge, have delicious lunch and took a rest.
It was snowing at the night. The whole village was white early morning. It melted heavily so till noon not only the snow disappeared but streets are dried up and become dusty again.
This day we did an acclimatisation hike on the nearby mountain and reached the elevation of our next day sleep: 4900m.
Our hike started in quite warm and sunny weather and later it became foggy and started snowing. Though we were a bit higher, around 4800m, the landscape resembled High Tatra: we walked among scattered granite rock with the green thingy on the surface that becomes slippery when wet, some low bushes trying to be close the surface and resembles the high altitude pine trees (torpefenyo). And all of this covered by snow. And it snowed big flakes like in fery tales. So I really enjoyed it.
We returned around 1pm to the lodge, have delicious lunch and took a rest.
Tuesday 16 April 2019
Dingboche
5th day.
Today we stay in Dingboche(4410m) instead of Periche. Raj suggested the change as this is also in our way and less windy.
The beautiful weather stays. Today we can see the Everest peak without clouds. From Dindgboche we can also see the Island Peak(Imia Tse, 6189m) that Reni will climb.
Yesterday I broke one of my record: I had never slept on altitude 3860m or higher.
Tomorrow I will break my night record.
Today we stay in Dingboche(4410m) instead of Periche. Raj suggested the change as this is also in our way and less windy.
The beautiful weather stays. Today we can see the Everest peak without clouds. From Dindgboche we can also see the Island Peak(Imia Tse, 6189m) that Reni will climb.
Yesterday I broke one of my record: I had never slept on altitude 3860m or higher.
Tomorrow I will break my night record.
Monday 15 April 2019
Monastery of Tengboche
Our accommodation in Tengboche is near to the monastery.
This is the oldest Buddhist monastery of the region. For some time periods it is open for the public. We could even enter the praying hall and stay there for a little while. If a high ranked lama is in the monastery than there is the puha ceremony at 3pm that could be seen by visitors as well. We waited for it. This time it was not hold. But it was nice to stay there for a while.
This is the oldest Buddhist monastery of the region. For some time periods it is open for the public. We could even enter the praying hall and stay there for a little while. If a high ranked lama is in the monastery than there is the puha ceremony at 3pm that could be seen by visitors as well. We waited for it. This time it was not hold. But it was nice to stay there for a while.
Weather
Till now we had success with the weather. We had no heavy rain during on walk, only at night.
Otherwise the weather better than I expected. Sometimes we can walk in a T-shirt. Usually there is fog at the afternoon and becomes colder, about 8-10 grad Celsius. Rain came at night. Mornings are even bearable: around 5 grad. And after the sun start shining on us the T-shirt time starts.
Otherwise the weather better than I expected. Sometimes we can walk in a T-shirt. Usually there is fog at the afternoon and becomes colder, about 8-10 grad Celsius. Rain came at night. Mornings are even bearable: around 5 grad. And after the sun start shining on us the T-shirt time starts.
Halo effekt
4th day.
Today we walked to Tengboche. The weather favoured us as we saw the Everest peak this day. With continuously changing cloud-conditions. We took 'some' photos of it.
We could also see the 'halo' effekt, the rainbow around the sun. Csilla had already seen such halo from the Budaoers hills in Hungary. So we concluded that Himalaya is just like Budaoers hills.:)
Today we walked to Tengboche. The weather favoured us as we saw the Everest peak this day. With continuously changing cloud-conditions. We took 'some' photos of it.
We could also see the 'halo' effekt, the rainbow around the sun. Csilla had already seen such halo from the Budaoers hills in Hungary. So we concluded that Himalaya is just like Budaoers hills.:)
Sunday 14 April 2019
3800m
Real time check-in on 14th, noon, Nepalese time.
We are at the top of our acclimatisation hike, waiting for lunch, and can buy wifi access. So I can send the entries I wrote till now.
Usually our daily routine is to have breakfast at 7 am, set off around 8 am. We have lunch around noon in a lodge nearby the route. We arrive to the accommodation around 3 pm and have lunch around 7ish.
We are at the top of our acclimatisation hike, waiting for lunch, and can buy wifi access. So I can send the entries I wrote till now.
Usually our daily routine is to have breakfast at 7 am, set off around 8 am. We have lunch around noon in a lodge nearby the route. We arrive to the accommodation around 3 pm and have lunch around 7ish.
Namche Bazar
We arrieved Namche Bazar, 3470m. For acclimatization we sleep here twice. Even climbers spend here an extra day. Thus this is a bigger village, with shops (bazars:)), restaurants and any type of accommodation, even a camp.
Fortunately everybody from us is ok, there is even no trace of high altitude sickness: I have appetite, no headache, not feeling dizzy. Zuzmoka is ok as well and enjoys the beautiful view.
Fortunately everybody from us is ok, there is even no trace of high altitude sickness: I have appetite, no headache, not feeling dizzy. Zuzmoka is ok as well and enjoys the beautiful view.
Himalaya
1st day in the Himalayas.
It was a strange to realise that we had spent only a single day in the Himalaya as so many things had happened.
Arrived to Lukla, the starting point of our hike, with a small airplane for 20 passenger, 2 pilots and a stewardess. We had some delay because of the weather but we had better luck than the guys next day when no plane fly at all.
We saw stupas, Mani wheels, prayer flags and mani stones. Mani stones are rocks or rocky surfaces that are covered with painted letters of the mantra 'om mani padme hum'.
We crossed suspended bridges and gave way to jokpas. Jokoa is a crossing of jak and cow. They said (and experienced) to be tranquil but too big and strong to feel comfortable beside them.
It was a strange to realise that we had spent only a single day in the Himalaya as so many things had happened.
Arrived to Lukla, the starting point of our hike, with a small airplane for 20 passenger, 2 pilots and a stewardess. We had some delay because of the weather but we had better luck than the guys next day when no plane fly at all.
We saw stupas, Mani wheels, prayer flags and mani stones. Mani stones are rocks or rocky surfaces that are covered with painted letters of the mantra 'om mani padme hum'.
We crossed suspended bridges and gave way to jokpas. Jokoa is a crossing of jak and cow. They said (and experienced) to be tranquil but too big and strong to feel comfortable beside them.
 |
| Mani stone |
Nepalese new year
Nepalese new year is during our hike, on the 14th of April. But we will not notice too much of it. First because they do not celebrate on the streets but with family: They get together and eat and drink. Second because the porters in the Himalayan region migrated from Tibet and they use different calendar with different time for new year.
Thursday 11 April 2019
Arrieved to Kathmandu
Our way to Kathmandu was quite smooth though there was some delay in our flight. First we took off later to avoid the early morning fog in Kathmandu and before landing we were delayed because of the lack of free parking slots. We landed around 9 am local time and left the airport about 11 am. The time is here CET + 3:45.
It turned out that because some construction work at the Kathmandu airport the flight to Lukla does not set off from here but from Ramechap city 5 hours ride from here. So Raj, our guide suggested to sleep in Mulkot city in between, 3-4 hours ride from here and 1 hour to Lukla. So we just run around Katmandu, bought missing clothes and water sanitiser. And around 4 pm we hit the road again.
Tomorrow set off at 5 am to be st the airport by 7 and take off at 8. I plan is sleep for the next 2 days...
Tuesday 9 April 2019
"Because it's there."
Hitting the road again. This time we hike the Everest Base Camp Trek. Er..., I mean we try.
I know Csilla from our travel in Australia. Csilla was on the Everest Base Camp Trek some years ago in autumn. She loved the area and wanted to see in spring as well. Plus that time she was not able to reach the Base Camp because of some light illness and the time she lost by going down to a village with a doctor. So she was determined to return and she succeed to 'recruit' a team of 4 to do it in this spring. So out team is: Csilla, Reni, Patricia and myself: Aniko.
Reni will climb the Island Peak (6 189m) as well. This is a 'real' climbing with ropes and crampons and ice tools. Pretty exciting. ;)
As I am also a trained and experienced climber, Reni asked me if I join her in Island Peak. My answer was definitely negative as I have never been even close to this altitude, and has no idea how can my body cope with it.
I was only once over 4000m (Lyskamm Occidentale 4480m, Alps, Europe) and a couple of times between 3500 and 4000m (Orlter, Midi, Grossglockner x2, Grossvenediger; all in the Alps, Europe). And my experience was that I acclimatised slower than my mates. So I am curious how will it be this time. Fortunately Csilla planned an extra aclimatisation day around 4200m (comparing to the 'standard' base camp track) so I really hope that I will manage it.
I am quite excited about this travel and hike. I have never been to Asia (except of the Asian part of Turkey: Cappadocia) so I am curious about the atmosphere and feeling of the whole. I have never seen such a high mountains in real so I am interested in a feeling being among them. I am interested in the culture, the habits of the locals, the beliefs and stories, and the churches and monasteries. And I am interested in the stories of my fellow travelers.
I know Csilla from our travel in Australia. Csilla was on the Everest Base Camp Trek some years ago in autumn. She loved the area and wanted to see in spring as well. Plus that time she was not able to reach the Base Camp because of some light illness and the time she lost by going down to a village with a doctor. So she was determined to return and she succeed to 'recruit' a team of 4 to do it in this spring. So out team is: Csilla, Reni, Patricia and myself: Aniko.
Reni will climb the Island Peak (6 189m) as well. This is a 'real' climbing with ropes and crampons and ice tools. Pretty exciting. ;)
As I am also a trained and experienced climber, Reni asked me if I join her in Island Peak. My answer was definitely negative as I have never been even close to this altitude, and has no idea how can my body cope with it.
I was only once over 4000m (Lyskamm Occidentale 4480m, Alps, Europe) and a couple of times between 3500 and 4000m (Orlter, Midi, Grossglockner x2, Grossvenediger; all in the Alps, Europe). And my experience was that I acclimatised slower than my mates. So I am curious how will it be this time. Fortunately Csilla planned an extra aclimatisation day around 4200m (comparing to the 'standard' base camp track) so I really hope that I will manage it.
I am quite excited about this travel and hike. I have never been to Asia (except of the Asian part of Turkey: Cappadocia) so I am curious about the atmosphere and feeling of the whole. I have never seen such a high mountains in real so I am interested in a feeling being among them. I am interested in the culture, the habits of the locals, the beliefs and stories, and the churches and monasteries. And I am interested in the stories of my fellow travelers.
 |
| Zuzmóka is just saying good-bye to my crampons and ice axe: we will not need them. |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)